Tuesday, March 3, 2015

For such a loud party, America’s Mardi Gras tradition got a quiet start. Or so the story goes, anyway. Back in 1699, North America was basically a giant pizza that the European powers were each trying to grab a slice of before it disappeared. French king Louis XIV had grabbed a rather huge slice right in the middle and named it after himself (Louisiane), which was the kingly equivalent of writing your name on your underwear’s elastic band. Spain and Britain were digging into the pizza box too, and Louis was getting nervous that France might lose its hold in the New World. So he sent a pair of explorers to firm up France’s hold on Louisiane.
According to the story, the two explorers traveled up the Mississippi River from the Gulf Coast, finally stopping to make camp about 60 miles downriver from present-day New Orleans. It was Fat Tuesday, the final day of feasting before the sacrificial season of Lent began the countdown to Easter. The French Catholics noted the holiday by naming their campsite with the French phrase for Fat Tuesday, calling it “Point du Mardi Gras” 316 years ago on March 3, 1699.
Plenty has changed since then. Mardi Gras is French for “Fat Tuesday,” for the tradition of eating one last day of fatty foods before taking up the Lenten fast. But it extends well beyond a day in present-day New Orleans, covering a Carnival season that picks up on the Catholic feast day of the Epiphany on January 6, and running until the day before Ash Wednesday. (Because Easter is a moving target, so is the 46-day Lenten season preceding it. As a result, Fat Tuesday can fall anywhere from February 3 to March 9.)
Another big difference: The original meaning of Mardi Gras, and the Carnival season, was to allow a season of indulgence and partying before the somber obligations demanded by Lent kicked in. Excess, then sacrifice. One suspects that the French Quarter is full of Mardi Gras fans who have mostly abandoned the second half of this equation.
But whether as one half of a cycle, or just as a party for its own sake, Mardi Gras has lived on in America…and not just in New Orleans. Traditionally French cities along the Gulf Coast, including Pensacola, Mobile, and Biloxi, have strong Mardi Gras traditions. (Mobile's organized Mardi Gras tradition dates back to 1703, predating even New Orleans'.) Lent got an early start this year, with Ash Wednesday falling on February 18, so if this post has you wanting to join in the fun, you'll need to wait until next year. But odds are you’ll still find a party in New Orleans, regardless of when you go. Just don’t come back to work wearing beads. That’s an awkward conversation to have with your boss.
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